Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Week #12: 11/30/11 Critique A4 Portraits

"I realize more and more what it takes to be a really good photographer. You go in over your head, not just up to your neck." - Dorothea Lange 

"Don't undertake a project unless it is manifestly important and nearly impossible." - Edwin Land

Critique A4: Portraits

Begin Final Project!
- 6 to 10 final prints due 12/14/11
- You choose the dimensions of your final prints
- Prints must be displayed in a professional manner:  
*Use pre-cut window mat boards (Sam-Flax, Pearl Paint, Adorama, etc.)
*Or purchase a portfolio book (Sam Flax, Pearl Paint, Adorama, Calumet, etc.) to slip prints in to
*Or have a book printed by a service such as Adorama, Magcloud, Snapfish, etc.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Week #11: 11/16/11 Retouching

"There are 3 key things for good photography: the camera, lighting and... photoshop" - Tyra Banks

"If you want reality take the bus." - David LaChapelle  

Retouching!

* Due next class (after Thanksgiving break) are:
1.) Your APPROVED final project proposals that you emailed me
2.) 2 total prints from A4 approximately 8"x10" in print size
 (1 from Part A and 1 from Part B) 

This class will will encompass the wonderfully unethical world of portrait retouching!  Below is a list of things we will be covering - please take notes though.
  • Burn and Dodge Tools
  • Clone Stamp Tool
  • Healing Brush Tool (plus Spot Healing Brush and Patch Tool)
  • Retouching on a new blank layer (Sample: Current and Below)
  • Edit > Fade menu item
  • Color and tone on select areas (eyes, lips, teeth, eyebrows, etc.)
  • History Snapshots
  • Smart Filters
  • Sharpening
  • Liquify, Puppet Warp, and Edit > Transform and/or Warp




Attached below please find some helpful handouts that relate to the following:
  • Portrait Retouching Checklist
  • Adding a Blank Retouching Layer to record your clone stamp and healing brush strokes
  • Sharpening (to be done after sizing and right before printing)



P3: Selections

Class Project 3 - Vegetables: Selections

  1. Open the “P3_Vegetables.jpg” file in Adobe Photoshop.
  2. Select the Magic Wand tool (hidden under the Quick Selection tool).
  3. In the options bar, set the tolerance for the tool to 100 pixels.
  4. Using the Magic Wand tool, click the red part of the tomato.  Most of it will be selected.
  5. To select the remaining part of the tomato, hold the Shift key down on the keyboard so that a plus (+) sign appears with the tool cursor.  Then click the unselected areas of the tomato (including the green stem) and the pixels will be added to your selection. 
  6. Continue Shift clicking to add (or Option click to subtract) to the selection until the entire tomato is selected.  The Option and Shift keys are keyboard shortcuts that perform the same action as choosing the Magic Wand icon with the + or – in the options bar.
  7. Also remember that if you make a mistake Command Z is the keyboard shortcut to Edit > Undo your last action.  Or, you can always step back multiple states using the History Palette and clicking on a previous History State.
  8. Once entirely selected, choose the Move tool from the toolbox (or press the V key on the keyboard as a tool shortcut).
  9. Drag the tomato to the lower left of the cutting board as in the sample file “P3_VegetableFinalSample.jpg”.
  10. Deselect the tomato by choosing Select > Deselect or the keyboard shortcut of Command D.
  11. Go to Select > Reselect to reselect the tomato again.
  12. Choose the move tool again and try moving the tomato over a little.  Notice that a whole appears in your image that is the same color as your background color!  That is because the tomato is on the same layer as the green cutting board so the moving leaves a whole in the image!
  13. Use your History Palette to choose the History State just after we made our final selection, but before we ever moved the tomato.
  14. Now choose Edit > Copy and Edit > Paste (or use the keyboard shortcuts) to place the tomato on its own individual layer so we can continuously edit it without affecting our background image.
  15. Rename your new layer “Tomato” by clicking on the text of the new layer in the Layers Palette.  Again, choose the Move tool with the new layer selected and move the tomato to the bottom left of the cutting board.
  16. Select the Background image layer in the layers palette.
  17. Choose the Rectangular Marquee tool with 0 Feathering in the Options Bar.
  18. Drag a square around the lettuce.
  19. Choose the Magic Wand tool, and with a tolerance of 32 Option click the white area inside the selection box.  This is a much easier method of selecting by knowing how the Magic Wand can save you time by utilizing easier color patches to make your selection!
  20. Copy, Paste, Rename the layer and Move the lettuce to the upper left per the sample image.
  21. Select the Background layer and select the Zoom tool in the toolbox.
  22. With the Zoom tool, drag a square around the olives to zoom in and fill the image window with them.
  23. Select the Elliptical Marquee tool and drag an oval selection just inside the olives oval.  Use the space bar while holding down the mouse button to drag your selection.  This is a shortcut that allows you to move your selection while drawing it out for a quicker selection with more accuracy.
  24. Once selected, go to View > Fit on screen (or use the keyboard shortcut!) to zoom out.
  25. Copy, Paste, Rename the layer, and Move it to its proper place (Try C and V shortcuts).
  26. Select the Background layer and draw another zoom square around the pink logo.
  27. Using the Elliptical Marquee tool make a circular selection just inside of the pink logo edge.  Utilize the keyboard shortcuts of Option to center drag the circle and Shift to constrain the ellipse to a perfect circle while dragging the selection.  (And use the space bar as well to move the selection while dragging it out).
  28. Fit to Screen, Copy, Paste, Rename the layer, and Move it to its proper place. (Try J instead).
  29. Go to Layer > Duplicate layer to copy a second logo onto its own layer.
  30. Go to Edit > Transform > Scale.  Shift click the corner toggle points to constrain the proportions and make the copy a bit bigger than the original.
  31. Choose the Move tool and hold the Shift key to constrain your movements in 45˚ increments.  Move the second logo copy down and to the right.
  32. Copy the second logo layer and again choose Edit > Transform > Scale, but this time plug 125% in to the options bar to specify an enlargement.  Again move the layer down and to the right.
  33. Command click on the layer titles of all three layers with the logo to select all three layers.  Go to Layer > Group Layers to group them into one layer folder in the layers palette for easier editing as a group.  Rename the Group layer to “Logos”.  (Also notice in the Layers menu that you can also Link all selected layers to easily move or transform them together.  Or you can choose Merge layers if you would like to flatten the selected layers into one layer for editing.)
  34. Zoom into the carrot and choose the Freehand Lasso tool.
  35. Try to freehand draw a selection around the edges of the carrot – not too easy to accurately stay on the edges, is it!?  Select the Polygonal Lasso Tool (hidden under the Lasso Tool) which lets you click to place points and create line segments for your selection. Click once on the edge of the carrot.  Then click a second time further down the edge of the carrot to extend a straight line selection.  Still not the best way to select the carrot thought since it doesn’t really have straight edges! Don’t forget you can add/subtract from your selection using the options bar or the keyboard shortcut keys of Shift and Option.
  36. Choose the Magnetic Lasso tool, which is again hidden in the same location as the Lasso and Polygonal Lasso tools in the toolbox.
  37. Click once on the edge of the carrot and release the mouse.  Continue by simply pushing the mouse and drawing around the edges of the pepper (do not click! just push the mouse).  The Magnetic Lasso automatically snaps the selection to the edges of contrast for you!  Click once on your starting spot, or double-click, to close the Magnetic Lasso line and turn it into a selection. 
  38. If there is an area of the carrot that is not selected (like the small stem), you can always choose the Lasso tool and add/subtract from the selection using the Shift and Option keys.
  39. Copy, Paste, Rename the layer, and Move it to its proper place (but notice you have to rotate it!).
  40. Choose Edit > Transform.  This allows you to perform multiple transformations including scale and rotate among others.  Rotate the carrot by clicking and dragging outside of the bounding box much like the Crop tool. Move the rotated carrot into better position by clicking and dragging inside the bounding box.  Commit the transformation by clicking the checkmark in the Options Bar.
  41. Zoom into just the pepper and choose the BG layer and the Magnetic Lasso tool. 
  42. Choose the Quick selection tool (under the Magic Wand) with a brush size that fits into the pepper.  Stroke a small line within the yellow part of the pepper and voila…your pepper is selected automatically.  Paint another stroke within the green stem and it is added to the selection.  Very quick, huh!?
  43. Copy, Paste, Rename the layer, and Move it to its proper place and you are done!
  44. Select the Crop tool and crop down to just the board using options bar settings of 5”x5” @ 300dpi.
  45. Go to File > Save As and save as a Photoshop Document file format to your flash drive and the proper folder on the server with a title of “P3_YourName.psd”.

Congrats - You’re done!  Hope you learned some fun selection tools along the way.

Keep in mind selection tools aren’t just for copying, pasting, and moving image layer parts, but you can also make a selection and then create a new Adjustment Layer to effect color and tone of just that selected image area.  This will automatically create a Layer Mask which masks out, or hides, the adjustments from the unselected areas.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

A4: Portraits (due 11/16)


Assigned: Week #10 11/9/11
Due Date: Week #11 11/16/11
Prints Due for Critique: *Week #12 11/30/11

Images Due:  2 total Prints - 1 print each from Part A and Part B 

Details:
To be shot in RAW file format and Manual Exposure Mode! 

For this assignment, you are going to explore portrait photography.  As with any assignment, make the most interesting compositions you can!

A tripod is strongly suggested for at least Part A of this assignment!  And don’t wait for a sunny day to go photographing.  You can take pictures under an umbrella or indoors if it is raining, or if the light is dim you can use a higher ISO.  If you see a scene that appeals to you, you can find a way to photograph it.  I also recommend a Daylight White Balance, but it is up to you!



Part A – Indoor Portrait:            I want you to photograph a tight headshot inside with window light.  Shoot at least 40 shots inside using only a window as your source of daylight (no inside lights on!) for the “Indoor Portrait” part of this assignment. Shoot with at least a 1/60 or faster of a second shutter speed - so increase your ISO if necessary to achieve the depth of field you want.

I also want you to use a longer focal length lens for the portrait and line the camera up directly with the subjects nose.  This level of shooting, combined with longer lenses with their narrower angle of views, tend to distort a person’s face less, giving the photographer (and the subject!) a more pleasing portrait. A longer lens will also give you more space between you and your subject so that you are not uncomfortably close to them during the photographing.  While shooting, try to capture different expressions and remember that the subject’s eyes do not always have to be back at the camera.     
Window light is a very convenient source of light during the day and is excellent for portraits.  The closer your subject is to the window, the brighter the light will be.  Unless you want high contrast from direct sunlight coming through the window, it’s best to find a window with more diffused light coming in.  Also try experimenting with filling in the shadows a bit, whether you use direct or diffused light.  A white fill card, or reflector, positioned opposite the window can lighten shadows by “bouncing” the window light back into the darker side of the subjects face. 



Part B – Outdoor Portrait:            Shoot at least 40 shots outside in daylight during the day with natural light only for the “Outdoor Portrait” part of this assignment. Shoot with at least a 1/60 or faster of a second shutter speed - so increase your ISO if necessary to achieve the depth of field you want.

            There are many ways to go about making an effective portrait.  In my experience, a successful portrait is usually a collaboration between the photographer and the subject.  Select a person that you would really like to work with.  Start by shooting informally and casually, make the person feel comfortable with you and the camera.  Take short breaks as you are shooting to converse with your subject to put them (and yourself) more at ease. 
While shooting portraits, you have to make the camera an extension of yourself rather than an obtrusive object between you and your often nervous or uncomfortable subject.  One helpful hint is to frame your subject with your camera, then simply peek over the top of it as you continue to photograph.  This will allow for eye contact with your subject, which will put them more at ease.  They think you are not shooting since you are not looking through the camera, therefore giving you more relaxed demeanor. 
Use color to help describe your sitter’s personality.  Think about the background and surrounding area and it’s relationship to the person, both in color and content.  Don’t overlook details such as the color of the subjects clothing and whether it fits the mood you are trying to convey with the photograph.  Everything you include in the frame should lend itself to the portrait you are making.  Choose and use the background area effectively. 
Try to make appropriate choices when selecting the aperture for the best use of depth of field. Experiment with different backgrounds as well and with different shooting angles. 
Also try to illustrate not only what the person looks like, but what they do, or their relationship to you. Consider shooting a person doing a job in their work environment (called an Environmental or Industrial Portrait). One final helpful hint is to always crop a person at their joints (elbows, hips, knees, etc.)  This will often times lend itself to a less jarring composition.


Submit ALL appropriately labeled digital files to your student folder by start of next class.
Example File Naming = “A4_Name_A.CR2”..
In Adobe Bridge, give a 5 star or color rating to your 3 favorite photos in each Part.

Week#10: 11/9/11 Portraits and Light

"The most difficult thing for me is a portrait. You have to try and put your camera between the skin of a person and his shirt." - Henri Cartier-Bresson



"It’s not the photographer who makes the picture, but the person being photographed."  - Sebastiao Salgado

Today we are learning about light qualities and how it applies to portrait photography.  

Direct Light: (like a sunny day)
  • High in contrast
  • Crisp shadows
  • Saturated colors
  • Needs less exposure
  • Emphasizes texture
Diffused Light: (like a cloudy day)
  • Low in contrast
  • Subtle and soft or no shadows at all
  • Muted colors
  • Needs more exposure
  • Softens texture (generally good for portraits!)

© Christopher Kim

© Simon Biswas

Week#9: 11/2/11 Raw Processing and Selections

Today we are learning how to process a Raw file format using Adobe Camera Raw.  Below is a link to a helpful video that fully explains all the intricacies of raw processing.

Adobe Camera Raw Basics:
0:00-1:47(Raw)  4:50-7:05(Tools/WB)  12-21(Exposure)  35:35-42:20(Sharpen)